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  #1  
Old 11-15-2009, 01:38 PM
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96SOHC 96SOHC is offline
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Default Main Bearing Cap Torque

Does anyone have a link or information for the correct torque sequence (steps) and and torque amounts for a WAP aluminum block? I have a 1996 shop manual, but it is very confusing. Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 11-15-2009, 02:22 PM
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And another question...do I have the half piece main thrust bearing on correctly? The 3 grooves are facing the rear of the engine, not against the block:

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  #3  
Old 11-15-2009, 04:35 PM
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That is correct on the thrust bearing...

Just work your way out from the middle.

Basically...

Cap 3 both bolts

Cap 2 Both bolts

Cap 4 both bolts

Cap 1 both bolts

Cap 5 both bolts

I use 50 ft-lbs on the inner studs (ARP) and 25ft-lbs on the out-ters

Take the inner studs to 25ft-lbs to set the cap...then loosen them all...then final TQ turning the crank about 90* after every cap.

then on the side bolts I use 25-30ft lbs...factory bolts BTW on the side...

If you are using the NEW stock TTY bolts...you have to go my Fords values. If they are USED TTY bolts...I would do about 40-45 on the middle ones and 20-25 on the outters...

Good luck.
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Last edited by NeverEnuff; 11-15-2009 at 04:40 PM.
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  #4  
Old 11-15-2009, 04:39 PM
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Tighten bolts 1-20 in sequence shown in four stages.
Stage 1: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Stage 2: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Stage 3: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
Stage 4: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.

Push the crankshaft forward to seat the crankshaft thrust washer and hold the crankshaft in the forward position

CAUTION: Make sure the coated side of the thrust washer with the 5-mm wide oil grooves faces the crankshaft thrust surface.



Install and tighten the cross-mounted bolts in two stages.
Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees


Hope this helps bro
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Old 11-15-2009, 04:44 PM
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Outers first huh?

Well I guess I have been doing backwards...hmmm. Oh well, every motor I have built has come apart looking just fine.

This is the way I have seen numerous machine shops do it.....I'm sure either way works... I just don't understand cause the outer bolts don't get as high a TQ value. Meaning if the cap pushes more down on the second inner bolts/studs, it could potentially loosen the outer bolts/studs...but then again...they want you to tighten the inner and outer bolts on TTY the same...

Hmmm....ARP FTW! lol.
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Last edited by NeverEnuff; 11-15-2009 at 04:46 PM.
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  #6  
Old 11-15-2009, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeverEnuff View Post
Outers first huh?

Well I guess I have been doing backwards...hmmm. Oh well, every motor I have built has come apart looking just fine.

This is the way I have seen numerous machine shops do it.....I'm sure either way works... I just don't understand cause the outer bolts don't get as high a TQ value. Meaning if the cap pushes more down on the second inner bolts/studs, it could potentially loosen the outer bolts/studs...but then again...they want you to tighten the inner and outer bolts on TTY the same...

Hmmm....ARP FTW! lol.
cant say that I disagree with you...I did the inners first too with my arp main studs.

btw, that diagram was for a 03/04 mach 1....with the wap block...and came straight from the ford website
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  #7  
Old 11-15-2009, 06:56 PM
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Thanks guys...much appreciated! I'll most likely be using stock TTY bolts for the mains, and they will be used ones at that. I tired setting it up once and got everything torqued down, but had not applied the 90 degree turns to the bolts yet; it spun freely. As soon as I applied the 90 degree turns, the crank would not budge. Guess I'll try a couple different techniques. If nothing seems to work, I guess the mains will need line boring, and I'll be out a new set of coated FM bearings
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  #8  
Old 11-15-2009, 10:47 PM
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YOu don't want to use the 90* method on used bolts. They will keep stretching and stretching. Just use a TQ value...

And I wouldn't worry about line boring. 99% of the line boring that needs done is because of poor machining tolerances from the factory. The older the block is the worse it gets. I have yet to have my block line honed and it has been a through a few builds. And has ARP hardware. The caps are so thick and the block is machined damn near perfect from the factory that distortion from TQing is almost non existent on the mains. My builds somewhat prove this...not saying my advice is always right...but my block CAN'T be THE only perfect one out there...lol
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Last edited by NeverEnuff; 11-15-2009 at 10:56 PM.
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Old 11-15-2009, 11:21 PM
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Well now that the TTY bolts have been stretched a few times, think they'll be OK to use with just the torque values you recommended? Just out of curiousity, what does a typical pushrod engine torque their mains too?
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  #10  
Old 11-16-2009, 11:24 AM
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John T told me directly that the stock bolts are designed for 5 uses. I reuse them all the time and never seen a stock bolt fail, I have seen 3 ARP fail so far.

All stock bottom end bolts on that aluminum block HAVE to be at 30ftlbs plus 90 degrees, I learned that the hard way myself. If the crank is not spinning at this spec then the block needs to get line honed. The crank should NOT be able to spin before this 90 degrees is applied to all bottom end bolts and that includes the side bolts. Its the later Teksid and WAP that got the high torque side bolts, the early Teksid has different side hardware.
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