Mustang GT 2V Camshaft/Valve Spring Install
The following cam install article is
not meant to replace the cam manufacturers directions. This is a step by step
list of directions that I followed to install cams in my 2000 GT (Windsor
engine) 4.6L. This article does not show how to degree your cams in but it is
highly recommended that it is done. The cams used in this installation are the
Cushman Motorsports NA Stage 1 cams and Comp Cam beehive springs that were later
replaced with Crower Stage 2's.
Remove air inlet assembly
including MAF, air box, IAT sensor, IAC tubing and tube going to driver side
valve cover. Since there are so many types of set ups Iím keeping this
description generic. If you have a Bullitt intake remove TB and
throttle/cruise control linkage as well.
Disconnect PCV valve and vacuum
connectors on coil on plugs, injectors, throttle body, IAC valve, ground
plugs, fuel pressure sensor, EGR.
Place some paper towel under
the fuel lines and use the fuel line tools to disconnect the fuel line from
the fuel rail. Wrap exposed ends with plastic such as Glad-Wrap to keep fuel
Remove (8) 7mm bolts holding
coil on plugs in place and pull coils out. ** Remove spark plug wires at the
plug end. Leave the coil end of the wires attached.
Remove all spark plugs (note
this is a good time to replace plugs).
Pull the wire harness along the
valve cover loose from the valve cover studs.
Remove (11-13) 8mm or 10mm
bolts holding each valve cover in place.
have 13 and Romeos' have 11.
Pull valve covers up slowly and
make sure not to rip the reusable gaskets. There is silicone used at the
joints where the timing chain cover meets the cylinder head. Once it is
loose it will take some finagling as there is not a lot of room to work
with. You engine should look like this (see figure 2).
Put the car in gear with the
emergency brake on and loosen the two 18mm bolts holding sprocket to the cam
(see figure 3).
motor cars can skip this as they have pressed on sprockets. DO NOT remove
the bolts. Break them loose and snug them back up. This will make removing
the bolts without air tools easier later on.
Loosen (4) 10mm water pump
pulley bolts (donít remove until belt is removed).
Loosen tensioner and remove
Remove (4) 10mm water pump
bolts and pulley.
Remove (3) 10mm nuts holding
radiator reservoir in place and tie strap to the side out of the way.
Disconnect electric fan
connection and the AC electric connection on the line just in front of the
fan and move to the side.
Remove (2) 8mm bolts holding
electric fan in place and remove fan
With the car in gear and E-brake
on remove crankshaft 18mm bolt with breaker bar or large ĹĒ socket
wrench. If you have air tools, an impact wrench will come in handy here.
Using a harmonic balancer
puller, remove the crank pulley.
Remove (3) 13mm nuts (** 8mm
bolts) holding power steering reservoir in place.
Pull the wire harness tab out
of the power steering reservoir bracket out and put to the side.
Disconnect cam position sensor
located behind the power steering reservoir.
Remove electrical connectors
going to the coil packs (two each).
Remove the three fasteners
nuts/bolts/studs holding the right coil bracket in place and remove the
Remove the three nuts holding
the left coil bracket in place and remove the bracket.
Remove the coil brackets with
coils and plug wires still attached as a complete assembly.
Jack up car so you can get
comfortably under the car and support with jack stands.
Remove (3) visible 10mm bolts
holding the power steering pump on the driver side of the motor. The last
bolt is a captive bolt meaning it canít be removed entirely from the
assembly. To access it remove the metal bracket attached to 90* bend of the
power steering line. Behind that line is the bolt and you will need a 10mm
open ended wrench to get at it. Once loose move it to the side. Alternately,
you can access the captive bolt with a 5į ratcheting combination wrench
through a hole on the pulley. This eliminates the need to remove the high
pressure power steering hose to remove the bracket.
Disconnect electrical connector
on the AC compressor on the passenger side and crank trigger sensor located
right next to compressor against the timing chain cover. This is done to
take any tension off these wires but isnít not 100% necessary.
Remove (3) 10mm bolts holding
AC compressor in place and move to the side.
Remove (4) 13mm bolts along the
front edge of the oil pan.
Remove (2) 13mm nuts on the
bottom of the timing chain cover holding the wire harness in place.
Lower the car back on to the
ground for easier access to everything else.
Remove 13mm bolt holding idler
pulley on the passenger side of timing chain cover. There is a timing chain
cover bolt behind it.
Using a flat head screwdriver
pry the stock cam followers off. This works best if the cam is at the bottom
of the lobe so there is less tension on them. They will pop right off and
will not hurt anything by doing so.
Remove all 13mm and 18mm
bolts/studs holding timing chain cover in place. This varies by year and
manufacturing plant. Unless noted above, the remaining idler pulleys and
belt tensioner do not have to be removed.
With all bolts removed the
timing cover will be loose. Pull the top edge away from the motor and upward
to remove. Be aware there are two plastic tabs on the leading edge of the
oil pan gasket that the timing cover may catch on while removing it. Do not
Remove the (2) 10mm bolts
holding down each of the chain tensioners (see figure 4). Be careful as you remove these
because there is some tension on them.
off the curved portion of the timing chain guide rail and put to the side (see
2 Valve Spring Install:
Before getting started use a
towel to plug the 3 oil galley holes at the bottom of the cylinder head to
prevent any parts going down into the motor. This needs to be done on both
(*NOTE* - You can skip steps
2-4 if you use a compressor and put air pressure to the cylinder to keep the
valves in place while you change springs). Put the crank bolt back in the
crank along with a couple washers to make sure the bolt isnít bottoming
Find something to use as a
feeler gauge to slide into the spark plug hole so you can determine top dead
center for the cylinder you are working on. We used a long piece of vacuum
tubing (see figure 6).
Rotate the crank bolt and use
the feeler gauge to determine top dead center for that cylinder.
The spring compressor tool we
used was made by OTC, part number 7928. It works by hooking around the cam
lobe for leverage while an arm below presses against the spring retainer and
on the opposite end you use a long breaker bar or socket wrench depending on
working room (see figure 7).
With the spring compressor in
place, press down on the spring until you see the spring compress, leaving
the valve locks in the open.
Using the magnetic tipped
screwdriver, grab the valve locks and carefully pull them out.
With the locks out, remove the
spring and retainer and replace with new valve spring.
Put the retainer in place on
top of the spring and, using the compressor tool, press down on the spring.
With the spring compressed,
place the retainers back in place. This can be done many different ways and
is the hardest part of the job, bar none. One method is to put an all
purpose type grease on the valve stem where the locks seat. Then, using the
magnetic screwdriver, maneuver the locks in place. The grease will help keep
the locks in place. Another way is the same as above but by using grease on
a regular screwdriver instead so itís easier to pull the screwdriver away.
One other option is to put the grease directly onto the valve lock instead
of on the valve stem so it sticks to the valve stem when you pull the
screwdriver away. If your fingers are small enough, a dab of grease on the
tip of your finger will hold the keeper on your finger while you place it on
the valve stem. After placing the first keeper, carefully rotate it around
the stem so it is in the bottom position. The grease you placed on the stem
will hold the keeper in place. This will allow you easier access to place
the other keeper on the top portion of the valve stem again.
Once the locks are in place,
release tension on the spring so it seats properly. ***NOTE*** A couple
pointers for the install. First, once you get the first half of lock in
place try to get it spun around so that itís on the back of the valve
stem. This will allow the second half to go on easier. Second, keep the
spring compressed as much as possible while trying to put the locks back on.
You canít have enough of the stem exposed. If you donít, the first half
of the lock will not want to slide around to the back side of the valve.
Finally, be patient This job sucks. Allow plenty of time to do it, and if
you get frustrated, walk away and come back later.
these steps on the remaining cylinders.
3 Cam Install:
Remove the 18mm bolt and
washers from the crank.
Note the order and
placement of the trigger wheel and gears. Slide the stock timing trigger
wheel off of the crank.
Remove the timing chain
from the passenger side cam sprocket and crank sprocket. The 96-98 motors
have a two piece crank sprocket and the 99+ cars have a once piece crank
Remove the timing chain
from the driver side cam sprocket and crank sprocket.
Before going any further,
spin the cam to get a feel for how free it spins.
Pick a side to start with
and grab your new cam for that side. Most will have a notation on the cam as
to left or right side. Left means driver side and right means passenger
side. Compare the lobes to the cam in the corresponding head to make sure it
matches up. Cams are specific to each side, so if you put them in wrong
there will be problems.
Once you have the correct
cam, remove the 10mm bolts holding the cam caps in place. Make sure to keep
the cam caps in the proper order so they go back on in the same place.
***NOTE*** The Windsor motors have individual cam caps (see figure 8)
on the head and Romeo motors have two large cam caps per head (see figure
With the caps removed, pull
the cam out. Be careful - the cam lobes are sharp.
If you are reusing your old
parts, remove the 18mm bolt from the front of the cam. This was loosened
earlier and shouldnít be hard to remove.
Slide the cam sprocket off
(keep in mind which side faces forward) and the cam spacer as well.
Slide the cam spacer on to
the front of the new cam, followed by the cam sprocket, cam washer and cam
bolt. If you have a compressor, this is when you should impact the bolts on,
however they can be tightened later.
Use cam lube on the bearing
surfaces and lobes and place into the head. You can use oil in the cam
journals as well.
With the cam in place, put
the cam caps back in place and finger tighten the bolts.
Using the proper sequence
tighten the bolts to 70 to 106 in-lbs. Once done, the cam should spin just
as freely as it did before. If not, loosen up the caps and retighten. A
common problem is over tightening these, so only torque down as specified.
Move to the other side and
repeat steps 6 through 14.
Once you know you have no
clearance issues, itís time to put the cam followers back in. The back of
the follow sits on the valve and the front on the lifter. Find a cam lobe
that is at the base of its circle (shortest point) and slide the follower
under it so that the rear is over the valve, the roller is under the cam
lobe and the front of it is directly in front of the lifter. Now take a
large screwdriver and position the flat head of it behind the lip on top of
the follower and pull backwards using the cam lobe for leverage (see
figure 10). It will pop the follower back into place. Donít worry about
the cam lobe surface it is very strong and will not scratch. Do this for all
followers and make sure to rotate the motor as you go so you can access each
one while the base circle is facing down.
Take one of the timing
chains and lay it on a clean surface with it stretched out and use a grease
pen to mark the two end links that are facing outwards. Repeat this on the
other chain (see figure 11).
Slide the crank gear (or
gears if you have a 96-98 car) on the crank. Put the 18mm bolt and washers
back in the front of the crank. Looking at the crank gear, find the mark and
turn the crank so that it is in the
position. This is your first alignment
Now turn the driver side
cam until the alignment mark is perpendicular to the head surface (the
alignment mark is a circular dimple along the outer ridge) (see figure 12). Put the chain on the rear crank gear, aligning the mark on one
end of the chain to the rear crank gear alignment mark and the mark on the
other end of the chain to the cam alignment mark. The right side of the
chain should be tight when placing the chain. You will need to use a wrench
to rotate the cam slightly when aligning the marks. When you are done, you
should have both of the alignment marks matched up to the marks you made
with the grease pen.
Do the same thing on the
passenger side cam, except this time the bottom of the chain will go on the
front of the crank sprocket.
Now you are ready for your
chain tensioners. To compress them, you must push down on the hydraulic part
of it and the trigger on the top right next to it. As it bleeds down, you
will see the teeth unlocking. Using a small allen key, push these teeth over
so that it compresses completely. When it does compress completely, you will
use that same allen key to lock the tensioner in the compressed position by
putting it into the small hole at the bottom of the front face of the
tensioner (see figure 13). This will keep
it compressed until you have it bolted in. Do this for both tensioners.
Slide the driver side
curved timing chain guide (see figure 5)
back into the place, then bolt in the left chain tensioner using the (2)
10mm bolts and tighten to 15-22 ft-lbs. Once it is in place, pull the allen
key out and it will automatically put tension against the chain.
Slide the passenger side
curved timing chain guide back into place, then bolt in the right chain
tensioner using the (2) 10mm bolts and tighten to 15-22 ft-lbs. Once it is
in place, pull the allen key out and it will automatically put tension
against the chain.
a long breaker bar, spin the motor over slowly. If you get any resistance,
stop and check your work. You might have piston to valve clearance or other
issues like the alignment marks are off.
Slide the factory timing
trigger wheel onto the front of the crank shaft. It will line up with the
keyway, and make sure itís facing the correct way.
Clean the surfaces where
the valve cover sits against the head and where the timing chain cover meets
the block and head. Carefully clean the factory silicone from the valve
cover/cylinder head/timing cover junction, the cylinder head/block junction,
and the block/oil pan junction.
Using some oil resistant
silicone gasket maker, put small dabs on the surface where the timing chain
cover touches the junction between the head and block and at the point where
the timing chain cover, block, and oil pan meet
Take the timing chain cover
and put it back into place. Once itís lined up, begin putting the various
13mm and 18mm bolts back into the cover in the same positions they came out.
Put the transmission in
gear and torque down the 18mm cam bolts to 82 Ė 95 ft-lbs.
Put some of the oil
resistant silicone gasket maker on the valve cover surface right where the
head meets the timing chain cover. Do this for both sides of the motor.
Put the valve cover back
into place and tighten the 8mm (or 10mm) bolts down to 71 Ė 106 in-lbs.
Install the idler pulley on
the upper left side with the 13mm bolt.
Remove the crank bolt, then
reinstall crank pulley on the crank shaft. Donít forget to use silicone to
seal it. Since there are so many types of pulleys, use the instructions that
came with them for install specifications. Stock crank bolt should be
torqued to 114 Ė 121 ft-lbs.
Line the water pump pulley
up and hand thread the (4) 10mm bolts into place. These will get tightened
Put the electrical fan back
in place and tighten up the (2) 8mm bolts.
Plug in the fan connections
and AC connection right next to it.
Cut the tie strap holding
the radiator reservoir out of the way and line it back up with the factory
studs and tighten down the (3) 10mm nuts.
Gap and install spark plugs
using 5/8 socket.
** Re-install the coil pack
brackets. Plug the electrical connectors back into the coil packs (two
Re-install coil on plugs
and tighten down the 7mm bolts for each coil.
Plug back in the coils,
fuel injectors, fuel pressure rail, EGR, grounds, IAC and throttle body
Re-connect PCV valve.
Re-install inlet tube
assembly including MAF, IAT sensor and air filter.
Re-connect tube to IAC
valve and to driver side valve cover.
Jack up the front of the
car and support with jack stands.
Line AC compressor back up
and bolt up with (3) long 10mm bolts. Make sure not to pinch any of the
wires going to the AC compressor.
Line the power steering
pump up and start the (3) 10mm bolts and alternate between these three and
the one captive bolt behind the main line. You can only go so far before
this bolt is stopping your progress. ***NOTE*** Some people just cut this
bolt out entirely due to its location.
Put the clip back in place
on the 90* bend of the power steering line.
Bolt the (4) 13mm bolts
back into the bottom of the oil pan into the timing chain cover and torque
down to 15-22 ft-lbs.
Plug in the AC compressor
and crank trigger sensor.
Put the wiring harness tabs
back on the bottom of the timing chain cover and tighten down the 13mm nuts.
Go over everything under
the car that you touched to make sure nothing is left undone.
Lower the car back on the
Plug the cam sensor back
in. This is located on the upper right hand side of the timing chain cover,
behind where the power steering reservoir is located.
Slide the power steering
reservoir back into place and on to the three studs. Tighten down the (3)
13mm nuts holding it in place. ** Replace the power steering reservoir with
the three 8mm bolts.
Route the belt around the
accessories and engage the tensioner.
the (4) 10mm bolts
holding the water pump pulley in place.
Do a once over all parts
that have been touched to make sure nothing is left loose or not torqued
Thanks to Modular Depot, Scott and Jim of Cushman
Motorsports for parts, Bob Cordoza for his expertise and help with the
install, to Keith (Phatdoggy) for giving me insight to some overlooked details
on 96-98 engines.
These instructions are to be followed at your own risk and in no way should they
replace any manufacturers instructions or recommendations. I (Bill Putnam) and
Modular Revolution accept no risk or liability for any damages resulting in the
use of these instructions stated here.
6-8 Hours w/o valve springs, 10+ w/ valve springs.
Valve spring tool (OTC 7928 see
figure 1), 1/4 socket ratchet, 3/8 socket ratchet, 3/8 breaker bar,
1/2 socket wrench or long breaker bar, 10mm open ended wrench, 10mm 5*
ratcheting combination wrench (high recommended but not required), (8mm,
10mm, 13mm, 18mm, 7mm, 5/8, 5/16 sockets), Large flat head screw driver,
Inch lb and foot lb torque wrench, Floor Jack, (2) Jack stands, Magnetic
tip screw driver, Ford fuel line tools.